Kalamkari isn’t just an art form—it’s a piece of history, painted and printed with love. This ancient Indian craft beautifully blends tradition, skill, and storytelling. Originating in the vibrant regions of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, Kalamkari has been a cherished part of India’s cultural heritage for centuries.
In this blog, we’ll take you on a journey through the rich history of Kalamkari, its different styles, and the detailed process behind its creation. We’ll also explore how this eco-friendly, natural-dye art continues to inspire artists and captivate art lovers across the world.
What is the meaning of Kalamkari art?
The term Kalamkari comes from two Persian words: “Kalam,” which means pen, and “Kari,” which means work. Together, they signify “artwork done using a pen.” This traditional craft involves skilled artisans drawing intricate patterns on fabric using a special pen, preserving history and culture through detailed designs.
HISTORY OF KALAMKARI
When Did Kalamkari Begin?
Kalamkari has its roots in ancient temple art and storytelling traditions, dating back to the 2nd century BCE. Over time, it grew in popularity, with artisans using natural dyes and intricate designs to depict mythological stories on fabric.
Who Created Kalamkari?
The art was traditionally practiced by chitrakars (painters) and artisans from specific communities. The Balija community in Andhra Pradesh, particularly in Machilipatnam, and the Kalahasti region’s artisans, were among the early creators of Kalamkari. These artisans belonged to Telugu-speaking communities, often working under temple patronage to create scroll paintings depicting mythological tales.
What role did Kalamkari play in ancient India 
In ancient India, Kalamkari was more than just an art form—it was a way to tell stories and express culture. Artists used this hand-painted and block-printed textile to illustrate scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. These beautiful fabrics decorated temples, chariots, and royal courts. Made with natural dyes, Kalamkari was also an eco-friendly craft. In my opinion, such traditional art forms have played a major role in bringing India’s history and culture to the world.
Ancient Sites That Show Kalamkari’s History
Kalamkari art dates back to ancient India, with traces found in Mohenjo-Daro. This discovery confirms its historical significance, showcasing India’s rich textile heritage. The intricate designs and use of natural dyes also reflect the high level of craftsmanship that existed in ancient India.
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The Many Types of Kalamkari Art
Srikalahasti Style – The Freehand Pen Art
Origin & History
This style originated in Srikalahasti, Andhra Pradesh.
It developed around temples and was deeply influenced by Hindu mythology and religious themes.
Artists used a bamboo pen (“Kalam”) to create detailed hand-drawn illustrations on fabri
Technique & Process
Hand-drawn using a pen (Kalam), without using blocks.
Made using natural dyes from plants, fruits, and minerals.
The fabric undergoes multiple stages of washing and dyeing to enhance colours.
Each piece takes weeks or months to complete due to the intricate detailing.
Design & Themes
- Inspired by Hindu epics – Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Lord Vishnu’s Dashavatara.
- Features mythological characters, temple architecture, gods, and goddesses.
- Often used in wall hangings, sarees, and storytelling scrolls.
Machilipatnam Style – The Block Printing Art 
Origin & History
This style developed in Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh, under Persian and Mughal influence.
Unlike the freehand Srikalahasti style, this method uses wooden blocks for printing.
Technique & Process
Uses hand-carved wooden blocks to create repetitive patterns.
The design is stamped on fabric using natural dyes.
Requires multiple block impressions to form a complete design.
The final product undergoes several wash and dye cycles to enhance colour depth.
Design & Themes
Features floral, Persian motifs, and geometric designs.
Inspired by Mughal art, nature, and animal motifs.
Commonly used in dress materials, dupattas, sarees, and home decor items.
How to Make Kalamkari Painting :Step-by-Step Guide:
Step 1: Preparing the Fabric
Selection of Fabric: Traditionally, pure cotton or silk fabric is used for Kalamkari
Soaking in Cow Dung Mixture: To purify and soften the fabric, it is soaked overnight in a natural mixture of cow dung and water. This age-old technique may sound unusual, but it plays a vital role in preparing the fabric for the next steps.
Dipping in Milk and Curd: After soaking, the fabric is dipped in a mixture of milk and curd. This step enhances the texture, making it smoother and helping the dyes adhere better during the painting process.
Sun Drying: The fabric is then dried under the sun. This not only preps the fabric for dyeing but also gives it a natural brightness, making it ready for the intricate art to come.
Washing & Bleaching: The fabric is washed several times in river water to remove any remaining impurities or starch, ensuring it’s clean and ready for the dyeing process.
Mordant Treatment: The fabric is treated with myrobalan (haritaki), a natural mordant. This helps the dyes bond to the fabric, ensuring the colours stay vibrant and permanent.
Step 2: Sketching the Design
Freehand Drawing (Srikalahasti Style): Artists use a bamboo pen (Kalam) to hand-draw intricate designs
on the fabric.
Block Printing (Machilipatnam Style): Wooden blocks are used to stamp designs in a repeated pattern.
Charcoal or Pencil Outlines: The artist creates fine outlines before filling in the details.
Step 3: Preparing Natural Dyes
Common Colors & Sources:
The dyes are boiled and filtered before application.
Black – Fermented iron, jaggery, and water.
Red – Extracted from madder roots or pomegranate peels.
Yellow – Derived from turmeric or myrobalan.
Blue – Indigo plant leaves.
Step 4: Coloring & Dyeing the Fabric
Preparing Natural Dyes: Natural dyes are made from plants, flowers, and minerals, creating a rich palette of colours. These dyes are prepared carefully to ensure they’re vibrant and long-lasting.
Artists use a brush or pen to apply colours in layers: Artists skillfully apply the colours one layer at a time, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next, creating depth and richness in the design.
Certain areas are covered with wax: To protect specific areas of the fabric from unwanted dye absorption, artists use wax to block off these sections.
Step 5: Washing & Fixing the Colo
Once the colouring is complete, the fabric is washed in running water to remove excess dyes.
It is then boiled with cow dung and water to enhance the natural shades.
The fabric is dried under the sun for a rich, earthy finish.
Uses of Kalamkari Art in Fashion, Home Décor, and More
Kalamkari in Fashion
Kalamkari Sarees & Dupattas: Kalamkari sarees, especially in cotton and silk, are loved for their hand-painted motifs and earthy colours. Dupattas with mythological or floral designs add a unique touch to any outfit.
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Kurtas & Ethnic Wear: Kalamkari-printed kurtas, skirts, and blouses are popular in ethnic and fusion fashion. They blend tradition with contemporary style.
Western Wear: Modern designers incorporate Kalamkari patterns into dresses, jackets, tops, and even denim to create Indo-western outfits.
Men’s Fashion: Kalamkari is also used in shirts, Nehru jackets, and pocket squares, offering stylish and eco-friendly fashion choices.
Kalamkari in Home Décor
Bedsheets & Cushion Covers: Hand-painted Kalamkari bedsheets and cushion covers give a room a traditional and artistic appeal.
Wall Hangings & Tapestries: Kalamkari paintings depicting mythological stories, animals, and floral motifs make excellent wall décor.
Table Runners & Curtains: Adding Kalamkari fabric to table settings and window curtains enhances the home’s elegance and cultural richness.
Upholstery & Lampshades: Sofas, chairs, and lampshades with Kalamkari designs create a heritage-inspired look in modern interiors.
Kalamkari in Accessories
Bags & Clutches: Kalamkari prints are widely used in handbags, potlis, and wallets, offering a sustainable alternative to synthetic accessories.
Jewelry: Wooden, fabric-based, and terracotta jewelry featuring Kalamkari motifs add an artistic charm to any outfit.
Footwear: Ethnic footwear like jutis, mojaris, and sandals with Kalamkari prints blend comfort with elegance.
Scarves & Stoles: A Kalamkari scarf can instantly elevate a simple outfit with its hand-painted charm.
Kalamkari art has beautifully evolved from temple walls to modern fashion and home décor. Whether in clothing, accessories, or interiors, this eco-friendly and sustainable art form continues to be a favorite among art lovers.
How to check Kalamkari fabric
- Check the Fabric
Authentic Material: Traditional Kalamkari is done on cotton or silk fabric that absorbs natural dyes well.
Fake Material: Machine-printed versions often use synthetic fabrics like polyester or mixed blends.
- Observe the Printing & Painting Technique
Hand-Painted Designs: Real Kalamkari is hand-drawn using a tamarind pen and filled with natural colours. Each motif has slight variations, proving it’s handmade.
Block-Printed Kalamkari: This technique uses hand-carved wooden blocks, ensuring the prints are well-aligned and detailed.
Fake Kalamkari: If the design looks too perfect, identical, or pixelated, it’s likely a machine print.
- Look for Natural Dyes
Original Colors: Traditional Kalamkari uses natural plant-based dyes like indigo, turmeric, madder root, and pomegranate peels.
Smell Test: Genuine Kalamkari fabrics often have a slight earthy or herbal smell due to natural dyes.
Fake Colors: Machine prints use chemical dyes, which may have an artificial shine or smell synthetic.
- Feel the Fabric
Handcrafted Kalamkari: The fabric may feel slightly stiff initially, as natural dyes settle into the fibers. After a wash, it softens.
Machine Prints: The texture is often too smooth and uniform, lacking the handmade touch.
Color Fading Test
Original Kalamkari: Natural dyes may fade slightly over time, giving a vintage look.
Fake Kalamkari: Chemical colours remain bright but may crack or peel off after washing.
Water Test for Colors
Dampen a cotton swab and rub it gently over the fabric.
Real Kalamkari: Natural dyes may release some colour, but the print remains intact.
Fake Kalamkari: Chemical prints may bleed excessively or leave a powdery residue.
Price & Source
Authentic Kalamkari is handmade and takes time to produce, making it slightly expensive. If a piece is too cheap, it’s likely mass-produced.
Always buy from reputed sellers, artisan cooperatives, or government-approved handicraft stores.
Authentic Kalamkari art is a symbol of India’s rich heritage and craftsmanship. By checking the fabric, print, colours, and texture, you can easily spot the difference between handmade and machine-made versions.
Next time you buy Kalamkari, use these tips to ensure you get a genuine piece of art!
Conclusion
Authentic Kalamkari art is a timeless expression of India’s rich heritage and craftsmanship. With its intricate hand-drawn or block-printed designs and the use of natural dyes, it stands apart from mass-produced imitations. By examining the fabric, printing technique, colour quality, and texture, you can easily differentiate between genuine and fake Kalamkari. Investing in original Kalamkari not only ensures you own a unique piece of art but also supports skilled artisans who have kept this traditional craft alive for generations. So, the next time you shop for Kalamkari, use these tips to make an informed and authentic choice!
